For those travelling to London for the DFWE, the weekend offers an opportunity to do more than simply attend the tasting. Gareth Birchley of Burns & German Vintners takes us through his ideal itinerary, pairing the event with some of his favourite places to eat, drink and unwind across the capital.
If you have thought ahead and are planning to arrive on the Thursday evening for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE), then you’ve made the correct choice and afforded yourself an extra evening to luxuriate in our capital’s phenomenal dining scene.
For those looking to stay as local as possible, The Landmark Hotel itself is a wonderful place to stay. There are cheaper options in the area but the idea of popping upstairs after your winemakers’ lunch for a short siesta, might be too attractive a proposition to pass up.
(Image credit: Ellen Richardson)
Thursday arrivals: What to do before the corks pop
After checking in on the Thursday evening it stands to reason that you will be gasping for a glass of something special over dinner, ahead of the extraordinary vinous weekend that will no doubt unfold over the next few days.
If it’s fine dining you are after and have a penchant for seeking out legendary wines from Burgundy particularly, then an eight-minute taxi ride away is Les 110 des Taillevent on Cavendish Square. The food here is undeniably refined and classically French, but with a wonderful lightness of touch and elegance. If you are dining solo or keeping your powder dry for the weekend ahead, there are 110 wines by the glass that caters for all tastes, including mature vintages of Raveneau and Lafon. Not something to pass up lightly.
Les 110 des Taillevent on Cavendish Square
(Image credit: Les 110 des Taillevent)
Should you wish to keep things on the plate more informal, then Lurra on Seymour Place is the perfect destination.
The format here is designed for sharing in the best possible manner. Small starters and table filling larger plates from Galician Octopus to Suckling Lamb, Iberico Presa and the uber fashionable whole Turbot cooked over fire. The wine list is, in the majority, from the Iberian peninsula, which is perfect foil for the food. A gastronomic experience I cannot recommend highly enough.
Fast forward to Friday morning
The following day, the eagle eyed amongst you will have noted that the Grand Tasting does not open until 3pm.
Personally, if space allows, I would run not walk to the Winemakers’ lunch hosted by the inimitable Lucy Hill-Smith. One of Australia’s most prominent estates, Yalumba has been family owned for 175 years and remains an absolute icon of the global wine scene. The lunch includes both the flagship “Caley” Cabernet-Shiraz and a rare mature vintage of the unique “Signature”.
The afternoon Grand Tasting holds more delights than any mortal can imbibe. Starting with fizz it’s impossible to look beyond titans of Champagne, Taittinger and Philipponnat, the latter’s single vineyard Clos des Goisses remains the apex of the region for many aficionados.
Whilst Whispering Angel is the most famous rosé on the planet, many remain ignorantly unaware that Chateau D’Esclans produce a range of wines right up to the legendary Garrus that entirely reframed the Rose category when first introduced by founder Sacha Lichine. This estate crafts a range of wines that represent the very best of Provence.
For Friday afternoon reds, CVNE from Rioja feels fitting and, should you feel inspired to track down some of the wines you enjoyed, represents some of the very best value in the fine wine world. If you have never experienced the delights of Michel Chapoutier in the Northern Rhone you may not be aware that no winery holds more perfect 100 point scores from the infamous critic Robert Parker than them. Their range of both Cote Rotie and Hermitage, including whites, are amongst the very finest wines produced.
Friday’s Post-Pour Refuel
After a few hours of intensive tasting you might want to focus your dinner plans away from another vinous overstimulation, so I whole heartedly recommend Phoenix Palace just round the corner on Glentworth Street.
There is a list here that holds gems like Lafite, Margaux and Petrus but it’s absolutely not focussed around wine. This family style Chinese dining is second to none, but works equally well as a table for two or four. The EIGHT (!!!) menus are extensive and authentic. The adventurous should not miss the “Cold Trotter in Rice Wine” but if it’s a dash of luxury you crave there is an ample selection of Lobster, Abalone or perhaps comparing their preparation of the whole Turbot to last night’s Basque extravaganza.
Phoenix Palace on Glentworth Street.
(Image credit: Phoenix Palace)
If Chinese is not your thing and you yearn for a time when pink napkins, neatly folded into wine glasses adorning pink clothed tables was the height of sophistication then you are going to want to head to Oslo Court.
Perhaps one of our capital’s greatest hidden treasures, this iconic dining room is always full to the rafters with adoring fans flocking for Steak Diane, Turbot in Champagne Sauce, Prawn Cocktail and their very own taste of the seventies. Not one to miss!
Saturday: Globetrotting at the Grand Tasting
Saturday’s escapade to the Grand Tasting feels like a day for claret. The Bordeaux estates on show are an embarrassment of riches.
For those wishing to explore the elegance and refinement of the Margaux Appellation, Brane-Cantenac, Giscours and Lascombes (now under the stewardship of Axel Heinz, previously of Ornellaia) are a fascinating comparison.
St Julien is represented by a few of its very finest; Beychevelle, Leoville Poyferre and Barton Family Wines (Leoville and Langoa). All three of these offer amazing value for money in the modern world, particularly in the context of wines that will effortlessly age for half a century or more.
Guests at The Grand Tasting.
(Image credit: Ellen Richardson)
At some point perhaps something sweet to revive a fatigued palate. The electric Vendange Tardive Rieslings and Pinot Gris from Hugel, the phenomenally concentrated elixirs of Royal Tokaj or the fortified gems from Symington Family Estate. All worth seeking out!
That said, do not leave without tasting the offerings from Domaine Evremond, Taittinger’s outpost in Kent that is taking the UK wine scene by storm.
The Grand Finale: Where to round off your wine weekend
For dinner, and the conclusion of your immersive wine experience, a short trip up to Swiss Cottage and Arches Wine Bar in Fairhazel Gardens is completely and utterly unmissable.
Previously owned by the late, great Harry Gill, a goliath of the industry, the stories of this establishment are second to none and remain for all to see by way of the empty bottles that adorn every ledge and shelf of the dining room. Each bottle represents an occasion of immense enjoyment proffered by Harry and shared by his loyal regulars who still sit recounting tales of great nights that can scarcely be believed today.
This is the embodiment of hedonistic consumption and is the perfect place to finish your weekend, eating steak and enjoy the character of this truly unique bar.
Many experiences are now sold out, with limited tickets remaining for Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London. Join us for two days of exceptional wine discovery at The Landmark London, 6–7 November.
