‘Peruvian flavours are bold and consistently delicious’
Drawing from a bountiful pantry that stretches from the lofty peaks of the Andes to the generous Pacific ocean and the little-trodden Amazon region, Peruvian flavours are bold, tasty and consistently delicious, whether you’re eating at an award-winning fine-dining establishment, devouring grilled beef heart skewers from a street food cart or savouring a refreshing cebiche on a warm day at home.
Beloved ingredients include the nation’s more than 6,000 potato varieties, a copious assortment of chilli peppers and abundant seafood, used in a variety of tasty regional dishes, from arroz con cabrito (slow-cooked kid goat and rice) from Lambayeque in the north to rocoto relleno (meat-filled peppers) from Arequipa in the south.
Then, there’s cebiche, prepared up and down the coast using the catch of the day – be it black clams, sea urchin or squid – marinated in the spicy, pearly lime juice-based sauce known as leche de tigre (‘tiger’s milk’).
And outside Peru, home cooks are beginning to explore this delicious culinary landscape, which necessarily begs the question of which drinks to pair with it.
What to drink with Peruvian food: Pisco to Semillon
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Cebiche in all its guises (only eaten at lunchtime), ají de gallina (a spicy chicken stew), causa limeña (potatoes in a creamy yellow chilli sauce), lomo saltado (stir-fried beef) and tiradito (sashimi) are all firm favourites on menus in the capital Lima, an outstanding gastronomic city that’s home to Central and Maido, both of which have topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
And while sweet-toothed Peruvians will likely order golden, lemon verbena-flavoured Inca Kola with these day-to-day classics, sommeliers enjoy showcasing locally produced wines and spirits.
Peruvians also revere the fermented grape distillate pisco, knocking back 80% of production in Sours, Chilcanos and the Manhattan twist El Capitán, but a blossoming wine scene is reviving the eight ancestral varieties used to make it.
José Garma, sommelier at La Mar Cebichería, uses the wines as inspiration during uni season – the period, from June to October, when artisanal divers harvest red sea urchins along Peru’s southern coast; uni is the Japanese word for the urchin’s edible parts.
‘Bodega Murga’s [skin contact] Joyas de Murga Blend,’ Garma says, ‘made from Black Criolla, Quebranta and Albilla, complements sea urchin cebiche’s creaminess and freshness alongside the characteristic fruitiness of these heritage grapes, which have spicy notes and refreshing acidity.’
Meanwhile, Kyra Bruning, sommelier at Mérito, opts for fresh whites with cebiche.
‘Semillon is a great ally – a light one but with enough body to hold its own alongside the seasonings and ingredients, such as lightly fried squid or raw prawns,’ she says.
As the preceding makes clear, Peruvians are rather partial to proteins. Rotisserie chicken is wildly popular, as are cuy chactado (fried guinea pig) and pork or beef rice dishes.
Northern classic arroz con pato (duck marinated in dark lager and served with rice) pairs beautifully with St-Emilion, according to Iván Mestanza, sommelier at renowned Lima restaurant Siete.
‘Medium acidity balances out the duck,’ he says, ‘while its intensity doesn’t compete; rather, mature fruit and tertiary evolution complement the dish’s toasty umami notes.’
Asian flavours
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Alongside its own regional cuisines, many of Peru’s favourite dishes bear both Japanese and Chinese imprints – known respectively as Nikkei and Chifa – thanks to diasporas from both countries.
A marriage between Japanese culinary techniques and Pacific goodies, standout Nikkei dishes include tiradito and pulpo al olivo. The latter is made for a Pisco Sour, each citrusy sip cleansing the palate after a bite of octopus and olive mayonnaise.
As for Chifa, many dishes are wok-prepared, such as tallarín saltado (stir-fried noodles) and arroz chaufa (stir-fried rice).
As mentioned above, lomo saltado is particularly popular. ‘I’d pair it with Cabernet Franc, because [the wine’s] herbal notes and tannins will help clean the [dish’s] fattiness,’ says Sebastián Córdova, sommelier at Shizen, a Nikkei restaurant in Lima.
Also consider a juicy red such as Malbec, which, while not quintessentially Peruvian, waves the Latin American flag.
Three top pairings to try
Rocoto relleno: great with Pinot Noir.
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Rocoto relleno with aged Pinot Noir
The wine’s tertiary notes and soft tannins complement this fiery, stuffed-peppers dish.
Tiradito with Chilcano
Peru’s answer to sashimi, tiradito is usually accompanied with a yuzu or ponzu sauce, and this simple pisco cocktail’s ginger and citrus notes work well with raw fish, says bartender Diego Macedo of Sastrería Martínez in Lima.
In a highball glass filled with ice, try mixing 60ml pisco with 7.5ml fresh lime juice, topped with ginger beer or ale of your choice.
Ají de gallina with chicha morada
The sweet, spiced flavours of this traditional Andean soft drink, made with purple corn and fruits often including pineapple and apple, marry well with those of the lightly spicy chicken stew.
